Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their children do not want to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these narratives and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
