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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.